In her latest cookbook, Good Things: Recipes and Rituals to Share With People You Love, chef and author Samin Nosrat reveals a beloved recipe for yeast-raised waffles, inspired by the late culinary icon Marion Cunningham. Nosrat, who gained recognition for her James Beard Award-winning work and her Netflix series Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, has transformed her childhood experience of enjoying Eggo waffles into a sophisticated and flavorful dish.
Nosrat’s journey with these waffles began when she received an invitation from her friend, Amy Dencler, now the chef at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. During that breakfast, she tasted Cunningham’s waffles, which she describes as “the best waffle I know.” This experience profoundly influenced her cooking philosophy. Nosrat emphasizes the importance of allowing the batter to rest overnight, enhancing both the flavor and texture. “I have not been able to achieve that texture with any other batter,” she stated, illustrating her commitment to the craft of cooking.
The preparation of these waffles requires just ten minutes of active time the night before. The batter, made with ingredients such as activated yeast, flour, warm milk, eggs, baking soda, and melted butter, is left to ferment in the refrigerator. This slow fermentation process results in a light and airy interior while achieving a crisp exterior that absorbs syrup beautifully.
Nosrat’s typical weekend morning routine adds to the ritual of waffle-making. She often begins her day with a warm beverage, such as cardamom-spiked coffee or tea, while preheating her waffle iron. This process is not merely about food; it embodies a deeper connection to comfort and companionship. She reflects on a quote from Raymond Carver’s story, “A Small, Good Thing,” which resonates with the essence of her book: “Eating is a small, good thing in a time like this.” For Nosrat, sharing food is an essential part of navigating life’s challenges.
For those looking to elevate their breakfast experience, Nosrat suggests various toppings. While the waffles are delightful on their own, options like almond or peanut butter and a generous drizzle of maple syrup can enhance the dish. For a savory twist, she recommends adding a slice of crispy bacon in the center and topping it with a fried egg, creating a unique and satisfying meal.
The yeast-raised waffles are not only delicious but also versatile. Nosrat advises making a double batch for busy weekday mornings. The extra waffles can be frozen and easily reheated in a toaster, providing a quick yet indulgent breakfast option.
The recipe yields between 12 to 16 waffles and is straightforward, with a prep time of just 10 minutes, an overnight rest, and a cooking time of 20 minutes.
Marion’s Yeasted Waffles
**Ingredients**
– 2 1/4 teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
– 1 tablespoon sugar
– 1/2 cup (120 grams) warm water
– 2 cups (485 grams) whole milk
– 8 tablespoons (4 ounces/114 grams) unsalted butter or ghee, melted, plus more for cooking
– 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
– 2 cups (270 grams) all-purpose flour
– 2 large eggs, lightly whisked
– 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
– Salted butter and warm maple syrup or apricot jam, for serving
**Instructions**
1. In a large bowl, whisk together the yeast, sugar, and warm water. Allow it to sit until foamy, approximately 5 minutes.
2. Mix in the milk, melted butter or ghee, and salt, whisking until combined. Add the flour and whisk until the batter is smooth. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
3. When ready to cook, preheat an oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (93 degrees Celsius) with a wire rack set inside a sheet pan. Heat the waffle iron.
4. Incorporate the eggs and baking soda into the batter. Brush the waffle iron with melted butter and pour 1/4 cup of batter onto each section. Cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions until golden and crisp, approximately 4 to 5 minutes.
5. Keep the cooked waffles warm in the oven and serve with butter and syrup or jam. Store any leftovers in an airtight bag in the freezer for future meals.
This recipe, adapted from Nosrat’s book, illustrates not only her culinary expertise but also her philosophy of sharing food as a source of comfort and connection. With her yeast-raised waffles, Nosrat invites everyone to experience a simple yet profound joy in cooking and sharing meals.
