At this year’s London Fashion Week, designer Simone Rocha showcased a bold and unexpected shift in her collection, embracing a tomboyish aesthetic that hints at a blend of femininity and blokecore. Models took to the runway in oversized satin bombers and track jackets, reminiscent of 1990s sportswear, paired with knee-high socks typically associated with soccer players. This season, Rocha collaborated with Adidas Originals, further enhancing the sporty vibe of her latest designs.
One of the standout inspirations for Rocha’s collection came from the work of photographer Perry Ogden. His 1990s series Pony Kids captured the spirit of working-class Irish youth who embraced a casual style infused with sport. Ogden, who also walked in Rocha’s fall/winter 2023 show, provided a nostalgic touchpoint for the collection, which was as much about reclaiming feminine sensibilities as it was about embracing a more gender-fluid approach to fashion.
Juxtaposition of Styles
Despite the tomboyish elements, Rocha ensured that her signature girlish charm remained intact. The collection featured playful touches such as lace boiler suits and tracksuits adorned with frills. The juxtaposition of masculine and feminine styles was evident throughout, exemplified by corsages and ribbons embellishing tailored coats and equestrian-style prize ribbons pinned onto trousers. Sparkling trefoil logos on socks and ruffled edges on tracksuits added a touch of glamour to the sporty looks, while vintage-inspired lingerie hints were woven into the designs, reinforcing the collection’s feminine roots.
In her show notes, Rocha expressed that she drew inspiration from clothing that feels “loved and lived in.” This sentiment was reflected in the rich tapestry prints and tweeds incorporated into the collection, which added depth and history to her pieces. Classic Rocha elements were also present, including gowns featuring bows in a deep “peat green” and a striking red dress, ideal for celebratory moments.
A New Direction for Rocha
As Rocha navigates this new direction, she continues to captivate the fashion world with her ability to blend diverse influences into cohesive collections. Véronique Hyland, Fashion Features Director at ELLE and author of the acclaimed book Dress Code, highlighted the significance of Rocha’s evolution, noting her unique approach to femininity within a contemporary context.
The London Fashion Week presentation marked a pivotal moment for Rocha, signaling her willingness to experiment while maintaining her identity as a designer. With each collection, she not only challenges conventions but also invites her audience to explore the multifaceted nature of fashion. As Rocha continues to push boundaries, her creations will undoubtedly resonate with a broad audience, merging nostalgia with modernity in an exciting new chapter for the brand.
