Holy Moley Brewing Co. in Dennison, Ohio, prepares to celebrate its three-year anniversary in January 2024. Founded by Gary McCullough, a former employee of Timken Co., this establishment has transformed a historic church building into a vibrant brewery and winery. With a passion for craft beer that began over 25 years ago, McCullough has turned his retirement dream into a thriving business that caters to both locals and visitors.
From Dream to Reality
McCullough’s journey to owning a brewery started with his love for brewing beer as a hobby. He envisioned a place where he could share his creations with others, saying, “I thought, ‘Man, when I retire this would be perfect.’” The brewery is located in a building dating back to 1897, known for its “very good bones.” Previously owned by a hospital, the church structure was put up for sale after the owners’ plans to reopen it as a place of worship did not materialize.
After acquiring the property, McCullough faced challenges operating in a dry town, requiring him to canvas the community to gain permission to sell wine on Sundays. While some community members raised concerns about serving alcohol in a former church, the overall response was supportive. “Very little pushback,” he reflected, despite receiving an anonymous letter critical of his venture.
A Unique Brewing Experience
Holy Moley Brewing Co. offers a diverse selection of beers and wines, with current offerings including a popular pumpkin ale named Drunkn’ Punkn’. Utilizing a small two-barrel brewing system previously owned by the now-closed Shale Brewing Co. in North Canton, McCullough manages to provide a maximum of 12 taps at the brewery. With no distribution as of yet, they focus on selling crowlers to patrons.
The name “Holy Moley” is a clever nod to both the church’s history and a cartoonish mole character that McCullough hopes to use for merchandising. “I love the idea of having something old with character,” he stated, emphasizing that the experience goes beyond just great beer. Most of the beers are themed around the rail industry, paying homage to Dennison’s historical significance as a rail and military town.
One of the top-selling beers is Jerkwater, a Pale Ale that caters to those seeking a familiar taste. McCullough explained that the term “jerkwater” refers to towns that lacked a water tower, relying instead on troughs for water supply, which reflects the town’s history of struggling for prosperity.
Looking Ahead
As Holy Moley Brewing Co. continues to grow, McCullough has plans to expand the offerings. He is considering altering his liquor license to host bourbon tastings and Sunday brunches featuring mimosas. Additionally, he aims to open a kitchen by spring 2024, serving sandwiches and charcuterie platters, while deliberately avoiding pizza to distinguish his offerings in a town known for its pizza culture.
The brewery sees a mix of clientele, with about 70 percent of business coming from nearby New Philadelphia and surrounding areas. McCullough aims to enhance the brewery’s appeal, noting that “we have to spend a lot of energy trying to draw traffic to this small town.” Plans are also in motion to establish a Designated Outdoor Refreshment Area (DORA) in Dennison, which would further attract visitors.
Holy Moley Brewing Co. stands out not only for its unique location but also for its community-driven approach. With events like mug club memberships offering perks such as 20-ounce pours and invitations to special gatherings, the brewery has created a welcoming atmosphere for all. Gary McCullough’s commitment to his vision is evident, as he states confidently, “This is my last brewery. We’re not going anywhere.”
